Thursday, June 09, 2005

picts but no pics

(AKA a letter from the Bronte Suite in Hawthornden Castle, Scotland)

In the five days since arriving in Scotland, I've had the opportunity to skulk around several Pictish caves (the Picts are an early Scottish tribe that was wiped out/assimilated) below the castle as well as the forest paths.

The caves are sort of small but dry as a goddamn bone and it is amazing to think that they were dug out using the equivalent of pick-axes, one swipe at a time. The forest is full of three hundred year old trees, mostly beech, yew, and oak, the most immense bracket fungus that look like stacked pancakes, and several varieties of fern, in addition to the wildflowers and gaudy rhododendrons (that reminds me, I've got to pick another bouquet for my room...).

Though today is pleasantly overcast, we've had the most amazing sunny weather, though you'd be amazed how chill it can still be in the mornings and in my bedroom, even though it's sunburn-inducing outside.The combination of work and hikes means that we're all extraordinarily hungry come meal time and practically lick our plates...then we go and have tea in the drawing room, decorated by Laura Ashley herself.

I'm also happy to report that I've learned how to nap, which has become necessary because I'm staying up until 1 or 2 am and then getting up at 7:30 for breakfast (they only serve meals at the proscribed times...this isn't a cafeteria). Strangely enough, the sun sets around 10:30 pm and then rises again at 3 am, so several of us are having trouble sleeping through till morning.

M. is currently in the area around St. Andrews and its famous golf course and we're going to meet up this weekend for a walk. I'm looking forward to seeing him...it's like we're having the complete opposite experience. I'm having the pewter and sherry Scotland trip (and am completely aware how undeserving I am, by the by) while Mike is having the hostel and drunken yob Scotland vacation...

In addition to the various projects I'm working on, I'm also conducting an interview-by-correspondence with Patrick Lane which has me strolling down to the village of Bonnyrig (with its public library and internet connection) semi-regularly.

More later -

A.

2 comments:

Jonathan Ball said...

Sounds like you're off to a good start. I've got Patrick Lane's There is a Season and am about to get into reading it soon (after I read Kafka's Amerika). Sounds like he'd be an interesting interview, from what I've skimmed.

Brenda Schmidt said...

Wonderful!